Sudan holds more pyramids than Egypt, remnants of ancient Nubia and the land of the black pharaohs, yet almost no tourists reach them. This film looks at why: since independence in 1956 the country has weathered 18 coup attempts, three decades under Omar al-Bashir's military-Islamist dictatorship, a brief democratic opening in 2019, and a new junta led by General al-Burhan since October 2021. Weekly protests against the coup continue across the country, with women at the center of the movement. One activist describes distributing paint cans so neighbors can spray protest slogans on walls, an act that risks prison and torture. Footage shows demonstrators improvising plastic helmets and makeshift shields against live ammunition, which has struck doctors and children alongside protesters, while arbitrary arrests remain a constant threat. The film also tracks the economic collapse driving unrest, with inflation running at 380 percent. Interviews with residents and protesters combine with street footage to show a nation cut off from the world and fighting over what comes next.