Thirty years after independence, Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania are watching their eastern border again. DW's reporters travel to Hiiumaa, an Estonian island once closed to outsiders under Soviet rule, where guide Ain Tähiste walks them through a military museum and explains why the country has been pulling Soviet-era monuments out of public squares since Russia invaded Ukraine. In Tallinn, 22-year-old Matthias Merelaine, with no memory of Soviet occupation, says he's ready to fight if Russia comes back. In Lithuania's only port city, Klaipeda, fisherman's son Paulus Jurkus lives a short drive from the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad and describes joining the swelling ranks of the national guard. In Jurmala, Latvia's seaside resort town, chef Lauris Aleksejevs talks about the Russian clientele who used to fill his restaurant and the income he's lost since the border closed to them. Interviews carry the film, building a portrait of a region rearming itself psychologically and militarily.