
The Vice Guide to Travel: Takanakuy
Every December in Chumbivilcas province, high in the Peruvian Andes, entire towns settle a year's worth of grudges with their fists. VICE host Thomas Morton travels to the region, where a single road and roughly three police officers serve tens of thousands of people, to film Takanakuy, a Christmas tradition that doubles as an informal court system. Men, women, and children alike put on ski masks and colorful costumes, some with dead birds tied to their heads, and dance and drink for days before the fighting starts. On the day itself, the whole community gathers in a central plaza to watch neighbors who have feuded all year, over stolen land, unpaid debts, or someone's daughter, fight it out in front of everyone rather than travel ten hours to the nearest courthouse. Morton talks with locals about why they trust bruises over lawyers and gets into the ring himself. The film treats the violence as functional rather than chaotic: once the fight ends, so does the grudge, and both sides are expected to shake hands and drink together.